|
|
Post by groundrush on Oct 31, 2006 7:37:38 GMT -1
Does anybody have any recommendations about flourocarbon as a leader material? I have used it in the past but had problems with knot strength and lost confidence to some extent.
Have been told that some of the latest products are pretty good although special knots are required.
|
|
|
|
Post by mikeconnor on Oct 31, 2006 8:23:18 GMT -1
Tried a few brands for a while. Only caused me a lot of problems, ( and unecessary expense). Went back to Maxima.
TL
MC
|
|
|
|
Post by Teifi Terrorist on Oct 31, 2006 9:37:48 GMT -1
|
|
|
|
Post by groundrush on Nov 6, 2006 18:04:12 GMT -1
Thanks for your replies. I think I will give fluorocarbon one more chance next season but if it doesn't give me confidence it will be back to maxima for good!
|
|
jimac
Sewin Nut
Posts: 169
|
Post by jimac on Nov 6, 2006 18:09:12 GMT -1
hi
STICK TO MAXIMA ITS THEEEE! BEST.
|
|
|
|
Post by buzzerman on Nov 6, 2006 18:37:26 GMT -1
super shin obi co,polymer dear but good
|
|
|
|
Post by Paul Dunstan on Nov 6, 2006 22:16:02 GMT -1
It pains me - but I must agree with Steffan ;D. I find the Fulling Mill Worldclass to be a very reliable flourocarbon. Consistent diameter, knots well and not too expensive. I've read lots of posts and heard lots of people say they've had problems knotting flourocarbon - well I haven't (but...... I feel the need to qualify that by saying, in the environment that I use it.) If you don't look after it, tie inappropriate knots or fail to lubricate a knot before tightening it - well, any material will let you down to some degree - even Maxima monofil that must be the industry 'standard'. Tying good knots takes practice, especially at night - keep it simple. |
|
|
|
Post by scotty on Nov 7, 2006 16:06:25 GMT -1
fulling mill world class, berkley vanish both 8lbs you wont go wrong.  scotty. |
|
|
|
Post by JT on Nov 14, 2006 7:53:09 GMT -1
Fulling Mill for me - rarely, if ever, lets me down.
|
|
|
|
Post by waddington on Nov 15, 2006 20:30:02 GMT -1
Always found Maxima Chameleon ultra reliable both as a spinning line and fly leader. If I use fluorocarbon I go for Seaguar. This is expensive but I have found easily the most reliable among st the several brands I have tried. I find Tippet material is a personal choice and once you become happy with a brand most anglers are reluctant to change. I know all mono is produced in a few factories but I do have a sneaking suspicion that you get what you pay for. I would always avoid "bargain" mono. Never mind saving the pennies so will gladly be corrected on this point!
|
|
|
|
Post by silvertourist on Nov 15, 2006 21:11:24 GMT -1
Hi Folks
I'm a complete newcomer to forums so it's hard to know where to start but this topic seemed like a good place. Personally i fish purley for Salmon & Sea Trout in the salt water bays, salt streams, estuaries and rivers. I have tried various tippet materials but the only one i have found 100% reliable is Stroft, never lost a fish on it and i would certainly recomend to anyone.
Mike
|
|
|
|
Post by silverinvicta on Nov 15, 2006 21:48:22 GMT -1
Good line Mike, better known in it's lower bs to coarse match anglers, personaly i find it a tad soft if anything, but a good line.
Si.
|
|
|
|
Post by silvertourist on Nov 15, 2006 21:59:30 GMT -1
I beleive so and i beleive its becoming more popular in the UK with fly fishermen. Its incredibly strong for the diameter, I tend to use nothing less than .25 stepping up to .28- .30 & .35 dependent on conditions, using .35 for turning over larger flies.
|
|
|
|
Post by silverinvicta on Nov 15, 2006 22:05:39 GMT -1
This has been said before, but in a previous thread TT reccomended Terry Eustace Pro Gold, a carp
line initialy. It,s a cracker. Thank you Steff.
|
|
|
|
Post by Hoppy on Nov 15, 2006 22:11:34 GMT -1
I beleive so and i beleive its becoming more popular in the UK with fly fishermen. Its incredibly strong for the diameter, I tend to use nothing less than .25 stepping up to .28- .30 & .35 dependent on conditions, using .35 for turning over larger flies. Mike - what kind of breaking strains are you talking re the diameters? I havent seen stroft, but have some good things about it? Hoppy |
|
|
|
Post by DAZ on Nov 15, 2006 22:17:37 GMT -1
Sorry to interrupt. Welcome on board Mike. What part of the world you from mate.Your not from Newzealand by any chance  DAZ. |
|
|
|
Post by silvertourist on Nov 16, 2006 13:54:21 GMT -1
Hi Daz
thanks for the welcome. I have followed the forums but never got involved before until Hoppy conviced me to take the plunge. I'm originally from Newcastle staffs but have lived in Trondheim Norway for the past 11 years so i do all my fishing around the fjords and rivers of central Norway and some in Nordland too.
Mike
|
|
|
|
Post by silvertourist on Nov 16, 2006 16:19:07 GMT -1
Hi Hoppy
in response to your Q rearding stregnth of Stroft
.25= 6.4 kilos, .30= 8 kilos and .35= 10.5 kilos. Use 2.2lbs to the kilo to convert.
It's quite a popular tippet material in Norway due to its strength to diameter rating. I also know that Tony Plant from Stockport Fly Fishing shop is recomending it now after testing and using it himself.
Mike
|
|
|
|
Post by Tyke on Nov 17, 2006 17:32:40 GMT -1
I have found the original Airflow / fishtec [with the yellow & black label] to be very tough & nice & stiff for turning over large early season waddingtons or bulky surface lures later on - especially the 15lbs bs which I am sure is actually more like 18 lbs bs.
On the down side however this stiffness can cause the line to be rather brittle & so if you snatch the forward cast before the backcast has fully straightened it may cause the line to fracture & the fly to dissappear into 'the oggin' - ok with one of my 2 minute lash up tubes but a bit painful if its a new deerhair 'mouse' type lure with the trailing treble. Also it does not seem to like blood knots or a simple double overhand loop or water knot dropper connection - however buy the mini stainless steel oval loops sold for carp fishing & whip one of these to the end of your fly line & use another to form dropper connections [if required] & this generally solves the problem although the advice previously given re moistening the knot before tightening is absolutely correct & should never be overlooked.
This may seem a bit troublesome but the advantages make this worthwhile, namely:
1] very good abrasion resistance - which as seatrout seem to have a thing about close proximity to snags is handy to say the least.
2] the stiffness prevents 'wind knots' [yes I know they are caused by casting defects & I get more than my share!] from drawing fully tight when casting & much easier to undo by pushing the line either side of the knot back through the loop which saves time by not having to replace the leader.
3] if a large silver lump grabs the fly when the is a wind knot I have generally found that fluorocarbon has superior strength to nylon under these circumstances - at least the larger diameter stiffer brands do, the ultra soft, ultra thin ones are generally not needed as we are fishing in the dark after all & therefore why take the risk?
4] it sinks faster than nylon & so the fly is more likely to be fishing correctly in the important first few seconds of the cast - these being the ones where the fly is tight to the other deep water bank under all those overhanging branches against the sunken tree trunk where the really big sod [which is the one your after] has taken up residence. Again as its night if you are fishing a sinker or fast sink tip / polytip fish a short leader 3 to 5 feet is fine, any longer and the line or tip is down at fishing depth & the fly is sliding around on or just sub surface as the long leader is slowly dragged under & you only end up fishing effectively from mid-stream mising out on the best lies [usually]. also 4ft of expensive stuff costs less than 9 ft !! [ I knew that higher 'edumication would be handy one day].
5] Re posher brands, yes I agree seaguer is excellant & available in a very wide range of strains, I use it for November on the Tweed in 23 & 25.5 lbs for turning over heavy bottle & 2" copper tubes [ & i've got some 30lbs in my bag incase the river is well up & i dig the 2.5" & 3" heavy copper tubes out [ + flack vest & full face crash helmet]. have previously used Ashima for floating line work & that was very good also; however there are some inadequate ones - some of them expensive too, & I generally stay clear of the 'ultra - thin for Breaking strain' types as these seem to require optimum conditions & perfect knots etc to perform & frantically re-rigging after leaving the last lot in a tree whilst fish are jumping doesn't seem to constitute 'optimun conditions' to me.
I'll probably get shot down now by some one who lost the fish of a lifetime on fluorocarbon but in my defence I lost the first definate double figure seatrout I ever hooked on Maxima - & that in no way diminishes my trust in it as a very reliable monofil both as leader material & [when I give in to the 'Dark side of the force'] as a main line on the [gulp] spinning reel - but only when the river is big & brown - honest!!
Best wishes to all other nocturnal nutters & I hope next season is better than this one was - it could hardly be any worse.
Tyke.
|
|
|
|
Post by stumpyguy01 on Dec 4, 2006 18:19:05 GMT -1
;Dsufix fluoro carbon is also very good,very strong and superb knot strenth.once used it will always be a part of your kit.comes at a dear price for a 20metre spool,but you get what you pay for.heavier diametres are superb for sunk line with a short leader say four foot or slightly less and it is virtually impossible to break.very,very abrasive resistant as well.got all the qualaties of the best lines on the market and then sum.10lb comes with a diametre of 0.30,12lb 0.33 and 15lb is 0.37.dont no if it comes in 8lb but as it is 100% fluro u can get away with the 10lb,and as for normal length leaders impossible to break.a product of mitsubishi.
|
|
